Rug Carpet - Carpets are made by pulling loops of synthetic or wool yarn through a tough backing. These loops are often cut to create the carpet's pile. The most durable synthetic carpeting material is nylon. It wears well and is quite stain resistant. Other synthetic materials are olefin, polyester, and acrylic. Wool has the most pleasant and natural texture, and is also the most expensive. The fibers used have a dramatic impact on a carpet's look and performance.

The list of synthetic fibers can be confusing because manufacturers often call them by proprietary names. Still, all synthetics fall into four generic categories: nylon, olefin, acrylic, and polyester.

Nylon - The majority of carpet fibers are made of nylon. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in a vast array of colors, and solution-dyed types are colorfast. Nylon carpets can be found in a wide variety of wear ratings and price ranges. This is generally the best choice of carpet fiber for the home.

Olefin - Also known as polypropylene, olefin is another popular choice for carpet. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains and wear. Olefin is used mostly in Berbers and commercial carpets. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making it colorfast. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon.

Cedar Shake Siding - If you are applying stain to cedar siding, the surface must be very carefully prepared. Any imperfection will be magnified because stain is transparent. Take your time during this stage to obtain a professional looking job.

New Cedar Siding

New cedar siding should be protected from the weather at all times. Don’t leave the siding exposed to the elements - get the finish on as soon as possible. It is usually not necessary to perform extensive surface preparation as long as the siding has not weathered for more than two weeks and is clean and dry. Any contamination, such as dirt, oil, and other foreign substances, must be removed.

For smooth, flat-grained cedar, some surface preparation may be needed. The surface should be lightly scuffed with 50-60 grit sandpaper. This will greatly increase the performance of the finish and will not detract from a smooth look. Surface preparation is not necessary for textured cedar.

Weathered Cedar Siding

Weathered siding that has been exposed to the elements for longer than 2 weeks may have a degraded surface that is unsuitable for staining or painting. Prepare the surface by sanding, brushing, and washing before applying the finish.

Wood Stove Pellets - Wood stoves are a pleasant way to heat your home. Since they are completely exposed to surrounding air, most of the heat is radiated into the living area instead of going up the chimney. And they can produce enough heat to help lower your utility bill.

Wood stoves require regular maintenance in order to remain efficient and safe. Creosote (black flammable tar deposited from wood smoke) builds up inside your chimney and must be removed to prevent a chimney fire. Ashes have to be cleaned out of the firebox and disposed of properly.

Clean chimneys at least once a year. This tends to be a messy job, so it's best to call a professional chimney sweep. The creosote is removed with stiff brushes designed for the purpose. This will allow your wood stove to continue operating efficiently and also prevent a fire hazard.

Siemens Circuit Breaker - Electricity can be very dangerous. It can cause injury or death, and has the potential to start fires. The purpose of this article is to explain how one of the most important safety devices in your home works - the circuit breaker. If any repairs are needed, hire a licensed electrician. Be very careful because you could be severly injured if you come into contact with a live circuit or defective device.

Located inside your home is a circuit breaker box or panel that contains circuit breakers. Some homes have more than one panel. There may be a main panel plus one or more sub-panels in other locations.

There will usually be a large main breaker at the top of the panel with a high rating. The breakers for your branch circuits are physically smaller and have a lower amp rating. Be advised that shutting off the main breaker will also shutdown the branch circuits, but there is still high voltage in the breaker panel. The main wire leads into the panel are still active, and shutting off the main breaker will not stop current flow to these main leads.

A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload occurs. When the load on a circuit becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and ceases the flow of current.

Kitchen Cabinet Hinge - Installing new kitchen cabinets will give a new look to an existing area. You can change the style, color, and almost anything else to create the image you are after. There are a lot of manufacturers that offer high quality products to fill most any need.

Before starting, see if your existing cabinets can be refinished or resurfaced. Sometimes, this can be done for a fraction of the cost of new units. And it's certainly less work on your part.

While you're at it, take a look around for other items that need replacement. What about those faucets and appliances? Lighting fixtures? Paint or wallpaper?

If you decide to go ahead with new cabinets, plan your job. Take measurements, make note of appliances and fixtures that have to be moved. Are you changing the color of the entire room? What about new light fixtures? How about the floor? This might be a good time to install new ceramic floor tile.

Get brochures from several cabinet companies and compare features, warranties, and prices. These will tell you what standard sizes are available, finishes, styles, materials, and hardware options. You may have to order a custom size to fit your area, but it is usually much less expensive to use standard sizes.

Draw a layout of your cabinet plans to give you an idea of how everything will line up and fit together. Make sure to include appliance and fixture locations. Check for interference with existing fixtures and lighting. If you are not going to install new light fixtures, make sure the new cabinets do not create shadows on the counter tops.

Look for interference with cabinet doors when they are opened. If you have a built-in range, will it fit the new opening? What about the exhaust fan - will you have to relocate the exhaust pipe and electrical connections?

Check the cabinet heights. If you are especially tall or short, see how far up you can comfortably reach. Many upper cabinets are designed to have an empty space between the tops and a standard height ceiling, while others will extend all the way to the ceiling.

If one of your cabinets will go over your sink or stove, make sure to allow space underneath it for working, and to attach lighting or a stove hood.

Be sure that upper cabinets line up with lower cabinets, and allow for windows and other features in the wall. Consider how you use your kitchen.

Items Needed for a Professional Job:

• Several carpenter's levels or laser levels of different lengths

• Lots of wood shims for leveling

• Clamps to hold cabinets together while you are arranging.

• Stud finder

• Counter top

• Two 2x4s or a cabinet jack

• Hinges

• Drawer pulls and door handles

• Any sinks, faucets, or other fixtures you will replace at the same time

• Paint and replacement flooring

• Caulk

• Basic power tools such as circular saw, drill, jigsaw, and screw gun

• Screws for hanging cabinets

Empty the old cabinets completely, then remove the doors and shelves before unscrewing the cabinets from the walls. Most shelves simply lift off of pegs, but some need to be unscrewed or pried off their supports.

Make certain that you support the upper cabinets as you remove the mounting screws. If the upper cabinets are a one-piece unit, you may have to separate them to avoid damaging adjacent walls.

After the old cabinets are removed, do any painting and floor work before installation begins. This would be a good time to do plumbing work if needed, assuming the pipes are exposed. See my post on how to sweat solder copper pipe if you need help with this.

Assemble the cabinets, but do not put the doors on yet. Take the time to make sure that the cabinets are assembled as securely, squarely and evenly as you can. Install upper cabinets first if possible, so that you will not need to work over the lower units.

Locate studs with a stud finder and use a level to draw a line down at their locations. Measure from the ceiling to mark the height of the cabinet brace or rail you will fasten to the studs.

Upper cabinets go first, starting at one end or in a corner. Be sure to arrange for a helper to lift and support them during installation. Follow all manufacturer instructions for installation.

Now mark the locations of your studs for the lower cabinets. Move them into place and check which cabinet sits highest. It's easier to shim the others up to this height than to shorten the tall one.

Make cutouts for plumbing, electrical, etc. Be sure these are accurate, and leave a little extra room so cabinets can be moved a little and not interfere with pipes or wiring.

Level the top of the cabinets by shimming under and behind them. Remember that you will install a counter top on the cabinets, so you want this reasonably level and all the joints flush. Also look at the appearance of the cabinet fronts and make sure those are even.

Ceramic Kitchen Floor Tiles - Ceramic tile is generally easy to install, and it's a great way to upgrade a kitchen or bath. In order to achieve that professional look, proper planning and prep work are the keys.

Sub-floor Preparation

The surface to be tiled must be smooth, dry, and clean. All contaminants must be removed by sanding, scraping or chipping. Any imperfections in the floor should be patched with a waterproof patching compound.

Snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. Be patient. The more time you invest in laying out your area the better your project will go. Solve your layout questions before the adhesive is even mixed.

For best results, all tiling materials and adhesives should be at 50 to 70 degrees for 24 hours before and 48 hours after installation. Thoroughly mix the mortar with clean water to a toothpaste like consistency. It is best to only mix what can be used in 30 minutes. Stir mixture occasionally to maintain consistency. In the event the mix becomes stiff in the pail, discard and make a fresh batch.

First apply the mortar using the flat side of a trowel to promote substrate contact. Then, using a notch trowel at a 45 degree angle, spread the Mortar uniformly in a ridged pattern. Continue applying mortar in a straight pattern. Do not swirl the trowel, as this creates uneven heights in the mortar. Spread only an area that can be tiled in 10 to 15 minutes. Press tile into Mortar with a slight twisting motion. To prevent any voids or air pockets under the tile, use a small block of wood or rubber mallet and carefully tap the top of each tile to insure complete contact with mortar. Be very gentle here. You don’t want to crack or otherwise weaken the tile. Stay off the tile for 48 hours.

Redwood Lumber - Softwood lumber is categorized by intended use - construction or remanufacture. Construction lumber is graded and sized after sawing, surfacing, etc. It is commonly available in lumber yards and serves as the primary resource for many projects. Lumber for remanufacture will undergo secondary processing to create a product that may differ markedly from the original piece. Some examples include stock for pencils, ladders, poles, boxes, etc.

Lumber intended for general construction is subdivided into stress graded, non-stress graded, and appearance categories. Stress graded and non-stress graded lumber are required to have consistent structural integrity. With appearance lumber, visual quality of the piece is most important and structural integrity is a secondary requirement.

The term "yard lumber" is often applied to the non-stress graded and appearance lumber that is sold by retail lumberyards. With such lumber, grading is done on the better side of a piece after drying and surfacing, and grades are designated by specifying the allowable size and number of defects (e.g., knotholes). This contrasts with hardwoods where most grades are determined from the poorer side of each piece on the basis of a specified number of clear cuttings. Another distinction is that hardwoods are typically graded prior to drying and surfacing.

Non-Stress Graded Lumber

With non-stress graded lumber, pieces are graded primarily for serviceability but appearance is also considered, especially in the higher grades. Imperfections such as knots and knotholes are allowed to become larger and more frequent as the grade drops. The primary product is boards that are less than 2 inches in nominal thickness and 2 inches or more in nominal width. Common nominal widths are 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. Lengths are usually from 6 to 18 feet in increments of 2 feet. Three to five different Common grades may be applied to boards in this group depending upon the species and the lumber manufacturing association involved. In descending order of quality, the grades are:

No. 1 (Construction) - Moderate-sized tight knots. Paints well. Used for siding, cornice, shelving, paneling, some furniture.